This isn't a page of bushcraft courses I'm afraid. There are plenty of folk offering those, so why would I want to throw another one in the mix?!
Rather, this is a page where the various tools and knives that I make for bushcrafters have been brought together for easy searching. Many of the knives that I make (as seen on the Knives page) are suitable for bushcraft purposes, but over the years I have developed a range of standard patterns. Equally, many of the tools that I make are popular with bushcrafters (especially the carving tools), so I have highlighted some of them here.
Please look at this page as inspiration for your purchase, then follow the links to the individual pages to see what else is on offer ;-)
Bushcraft
Knives
I, like almost every knifemaker in Britain today, have been asked to make a knife for bushcrafting. Unlike most I have not succumbed to making clones of the Ray Mears Woodlore. Instead I have developed a range of knives that in my opinion are far better by design (and depending on the maker, also by manufacture!).
My primary knife to rival the Woodlore is the GreenMan. It is about the same size and shape as the Woodlore, which is a common design seen in using knives for thousands of years, and can't be beat for general bushcraft type tasks. See below why I believe that my GreenMan is better than the Woodlore clones!
Don't forget that most of the knives I make are also suitable for the tasks a blade is put to in bushcraft. Just because I haven't put it in here it doesn't mean that it is any less use! This is a particularly good point considering that I normally have a very long waiting list for my GreenMan knife ;-)
Tritium glow in the dark locators in handle........................£30
Pro Model £260
As for the Basic version, but with these features as standard:
- 2 Tritium glow in the dark locators in handle
- Mosaic pins
- Decoractive filework on tang
This is the all rounder of the group.
The blade is full flat 'grind', that is the blade tapers in thickness from back to edge in a steady V shape. This means that there is less resistance when cutting and much less weight, whilst still retaining the strength and rigidity of a thick blade. The blade is left fairly thick (1.5mm) behind the edge, which gives you a fairly broad bevel to lay on wood when carving and on a stone when sharpening, but isn't so wide that any poor sharpening technique cannot be easily corrected. The tip is rounded on the back to prevent scratching when used for skinning, peeling or holding in the fingers, but the rest of the spins is sharp cornered for striking a ferro rod.
It has a fuller more comfortable handle than most bushies (though not thick or bulbous like some), the butt swells allowing you to grip it and flick with the blade should you want to. The knife will lie to the side when put down, unlike some that roll over with the edge pointing up! Natural wood may move with moisture, but it is warm and comfortable in use.
The sheath is a semi-dangler style, so it doesn’t' t jab you when you move or sit but still has some rigidity stopping it from flapping as you walk or run. The belt loop is quite sort, so the knife doesn't rest half way down your leg and the shape of the sheath allows you to place your hand away from the mouth of the sheath when drawing the knife. I place the ferro rod low on the sheath so that it doesn't get in your way and I mould the firesteel retaining loop to the handle, ensuring that the steel is secure no matter how worn down it gets (it is also held in with hot melt glue, allowing you to replace the rod without losing the handle)
Another all rounder, but for those that don't want to carry a larger knife. Also great for youngsters and those not so used to knives
The blade is structured the same as the GreenMan blade, but is a little shorter giving more control.
The handle is full sized, but having a simpler shape makes it more versatile in the hand. The more curves a handle has, the less comfortable it becomes in a variety of grips, such as you would use when carving. It still has a decent guard carved into it to keep your fingers safe and the knife securely locked in the sheath. The knife will lie to the side when put down, unlike some that roll over with the edge pointing up! Natural wood may move with moisture, but it is warm and comfortable in use.
The sheath is a semi-dangler style, so it doesn’t' jab you when you move or sit but still has some rigidity stopping it from flapping as you walk or run. The belt loop is quite sort, so the knife doesn't rest half way down your leg and the shape of the sheath allows you to place your hand away from the mouth of the sheath when drawing the knife.
Tritium glow in the dark locators in handle........................£30
Pro Model £190
As for the Basic version, but with these features as standard:
- 2 Tritium glow in the dark locators in handle
- Decoractive filework on blade
A small pocket-sized knife, ideal for wearing around the neck or slipping in your rucksack without taking up space and weight.
The blade is structured the same as the blades above, but is more slender and pointy. This is a better shape for carving and is less likely to be used for heavy work. The blade is also thinner, allowing it to cut more easily as well as weighing less.
The handle is shorter than the other knives, with a large hand you will find that the rounded end nestles in the palm of your hand, but small hands will like it too. The broad flat sides make it very easy to manipulate in the hand as well as ensuring it lays flat. The stick tang design makes for a much warmer more pleasant handle to hold (especially on a cold day) as well as alleviating problems associated with metal pins and exposed tangs. It is also, again, lighter.
The sheath on this has the same shaping, but is fitted with a brass D-ring for you to affix a lanyard or karabiner (so you can clip it to your belt, rucksack, etc).
Tritium glow in the dark locators in handle........................
Pro Model
As for the Basic version, but with these features as standard:
- 2 Tritium glow in the dark locators in handle
- Decoractive filework
The large blade in the suite.
THIS KNIFE IS STILL IN THE DEVELOPMENT STAGE. iT WILL BE COMNG SOON....
Other Tools
These tools are mostly found on the Tools page of my website, along with many others! Here is a selection that are particularly useful to the bushcrafter :-)
Adze
I can make these any size and configuration you like. Please state blade width, gouge sweep and internal or external bevel (if appropriate) when ordering.
Bowl carving adze: £180 (£120 head only)
Socketed adze from £110 (2 1/2") (£55 head only)
Axes
I mostly make hatchets and small axes upto 1kg (2.2lbs) in weight, but I hope to start making slightly larger ones soon (upto 5lb probably).
I also make small side axes, splitting axes and carving axes. Prices start at £150 (£90 head only)
Pocket Auger
I've modified these auger bits to fit the needs of the bushcrafter. They are small, compact and can be fitted with a handle quickly in the woods.
Other than attching a tube to the top, I have ground and polished the flutes to prevent cutting your hands in use. I also regrind and sharpen the bits to make them cut almost effortlessly.
I stock these in approx. 1/2", 3/4", 1" and 1 1/4" diameters, but can make them to any size that you require. (length is the depth of a drilled hole)
12mm x 110mm £25
19mm x 110mm £30
25mm x 70mm £30
25mm x 420mm £30
32mm x 110mm £35
32mm x 180mm £35
Sharpening Gear
These are the tools that I use for most of my sharpening and are the items that I normally recommend to people when they ask.
Convex Sharpening kit
I have made these clever devices to help you to sharpen axes and other blades that have a convex edge. This block has a rubber backing that follows the curvature of your cutting edge, so making sharpening a true convex a doddle. The finesess of your edge can be tuned by the chjoice of grit paper placed on teh block. Should you be in need of a fine polished edge, then just turn the last paper over and apply stropping paste to the smooth side.
Each set comprises:
Block with foam backing and clamps
Hex key (stored in the side of the block)
4 strips each of abrasive paper (c120, 240, 600 and 1200 grit)
£45
Other Bushcrafty Stuff
Here is a selection of some other useful bits that I make for lovers of the out doors!
Although I am a blacksmith, I prefer not to make normal camp kit, hence the distinct lack of tripods, dutch oven lid lifters, etc. There are many many smiths out there who do make that stuff, so instead I make unusal items such as sporks, metal cups, and firesteels
Waterstones
I am now using and stocking these rather than the more commonly available Japanese stones (Ice Bear/Kingstone). Why? These are nicer to use, wear better, are wider (good for planes), come in a more senisible increment of grits and also happen to be cheaper!
Simply saturate with clean water before use and keep lubricated with water. When a hollow wears,just rub on a paving slab with sand until flat.
Large stones are approx. 18cm x 6cm x 3cm
Small stones are approx. 9cm x 3cm x 3cm
please see my main tools page for details and prices
Fire Steels
These are proper fire steels, not those modern fangled ferro rod things (they are available below!). All made from High carbon steel and hardened to produce a shower of lovely hot sparks when struck against a piece of flint or similar stone.
Those pictured here are representative of the styles that I habitually make, though I can make pretty much any shape and size you wish.
Mini steel (striking edge about 1" long) £10
Dog Tag firesteel (can also be used with ferro rods) £12
Straight steel £15
Single coils £20
Double coils £25
Bottle Opener steels £25
Straight edges mounted in a handle
made from wood, antler, cast bronze, etc.
Prices vary according to material £25 - £50
Pattern Welded (Damascus) £35+
Ferro Rods
AKA Ferrocerium Firesteels and Swedish Firesteels.
The blanks measure 9mm diameter and approx 75mm long. I can fit any type of handle you wish, typically it is an antler or horn tip or a turned wood. I normally glue the handles on with hot melt glue, that way you can easily replace the worn out nub of rod.
Blanks £5
Antler/horn tip £10
Turned wood £15
Sporks and Spoons
The ever popular spork, but made in my own special way out of steel! I'm working on a standardised range, but until that happens each one is very unique in size and shape. For that extra something you can also have one made from pattern welded steel!
n.b. these are NOT stainless, so please store dry and wipe with a bit of oil occasionally.
Spoons£10
Sporks£15
Damascus Spoons £40
Damascus Sporks £45
Cups
Hammered brass or copper cups, lined with tin to make them food safe. At some point I may have a go at doing some copper cooking gear the same way. Each one is unique and I try to have a couple in stock to choose from, but these pictures are for guidance only.
cups are 3 to 5" in diameter and round sided. Handles of metal, wood or antler can be fitted
£45 each
Leather Strop and Honing Compounds
The leather strop is the final stage in sharpening, and can bu used to touch up an edge between visits to a stone. By using a thin yet firm leather and backing it with wood, you are able to ensure a flat honing surface (vital if you have spent time perfecting a flat and consistant sharpening bevel!). The use of a loose belt like a barbour has the effect of ounding and potentially dulling an edge.
Honing compound/stropping pastes come in varying grades (see images for details) and are applied to the strop as needed.
Leather Strop (large c.12" x 2" x 1/2") £8
Leather Strop (small c.5" x 1" x 1/2") £4
Blue Compound ('Smurf Poo' Medium grade, fast paste) 50g £2
Pink Compound ('Rosey Hone' Fine polish, fairly fast cut) 50g £2
White Compound ('Bird Poo' Very fine polish for finest edges) 50g £3
Carving knives and hooks
Chip carving, spoon hooks, straight whittling knives of all shapes and sizes. Please state which curve and whether you would like a left or right handed hook
Spoon Hook (rustic) £45 (blade only £35)
Spoon Hook (carved handle) £55
Twca Hook £65 (blade only £50)
Chip carvers £40 (please state blade shape) (blade only £25)
Dog Legged and Hollowing Gouges
These gouges are specifically designed for hollowing bowls, cups and troughs. The dog legged gouge is most suited to finishing the bottoms rather than the actual hollowing.
