This page was last updated on: July 18, 2017
I started my business in 2003 with the intention of making the tools that could not be found by so many of the re-emerging crafts. Today I still do that and even though some factories (and other blacksmiths) have started to make these tools again, I don't often find one that is as good as the ones that I make!
The materials I use are chosen to be the best for the job, so for cutting tools it is a spring steel (for heavy duty tools like billhooks) or a high carbon tool steel (chisels and the like); all of which are heat treated using MODERN techniques which allow for more control and repeatable results (ie better edges and toughness than more traditional methods). The handles and other wooden parts are sourced from my own woodland and cleft rather than sawn, so retaining more strength than those taken from a plank.
The tools shown here are just the ones that I make on a regular basis (and try to keep in stock), but over the years I have made all sorts of original and experimental tools for various craftspeople. So if you are looking for something particular but can't find anybody who makes it, then please get in touch as I'm sure I will be able to help :-)
I am happy to supply you with just the metal parts in a ground but not honed state if you wish to fit your own handles. Not only does this make for a more personal tool, it reduces the cost to you
Many tools are used by multiple crafts, so please scroll through the other catagories listed (I may have put your tool in a different place! Afterall, a billhook is used by many crafts but I have put them in the Greenwood catagory)
Please click on the images to get a better view of the tool!
I can supply superior replacement blades for planes and the like if you have an original I can copy. Equally if you require a bespoke shape carving tool, then I am happy to help
Over this coming winter I'm going to standardise the picture shapes/sizes to make things look better. That does mean that I have to make a new example of everything on this page! So, in the meantime please accept my apologies for the distorted and cropped thumbnails!
Chisels and Gouges
I can make these any size and configuration you like. Please state blade width, gouge sweep and internal or external bevel (if appropriate) when ordering. Blades only are supplied ground to an edge, but not honed.
Bevel edged blades only from £30 (1/4")
Firmer/straight edged blades only from £20 (1/4")
Completed tools (handles and honed edges) add £20 for turned or £30 for carved.
I can make these any size and configuration you like. Please state blade width, gouge sweep and internal or external bevel (if appropriate) when ordering.
Bowl carving adze: £150 (£90 head only)
'Spooning' Adze: From £180 (£110 head only)
Socketed adze from £110 (2 1/2") (£55 head only)
I mostly make hatchets and small axes upto 1kg (2.2lbs) in weight. I also make small side axes, splitting axes and carving axes. Prices start at £100 (£50 head only)
The pictures to the left are examples only, please see my 'knives' page above to see what I have available!
Drawknives & Shaves
Drawknives of any size and handle angle can be made, as can inshaves, outshaves and replacement blades for spokeshaves and planes.
Small Drawknife £75
Replacement spokeshave blade £30
In a variety of shapes and sizes, but not double edged (I made one once, never again)
Prices start at £75
These are made from 14mm round steel with High Carbon steel cutting edges, so much beefier than the commonly available. It also means that you can do some adjustments to the angle of the tip by tweaking the softer shafts yourself (best ask me for advice before trying though!)
Hook tool blades only £50
bottoming tool £40
Carving knives and hooks
Chip carving, spoon hooks, straight whittling knives of all shapes and sizes. Please state which curve and whether you would like a left or right handed hook
Spoon Hook (rustic) £35 (blade only £25)
Spoon Hook (carved handle) £45
Twca Hook £55 (blade only £40)
Chip carvers £30 (please state blade shape) (blade only £20)
Drills and Augers
Mostly I make spoon augers, but I can also make reamers and spade bits to suit your size. Augers can be made with an ancient flat tang, an eye (as in 'scotch eyed auger'), hex or Jennings pattern
I can also provide simple branch handles or elaborate chest braces with brass bearings if requested.
Spoon Auger (bit only) from £50 to £65 (3/4" to 2 1/2")
Simple handle £25
Chest Brace handle £60
Basketry and Weaving
When I started out making tools I was taken under then wing of renowned basket maker Linda Lemieux, so it was inevitable that the first tools I learnt to make were for rush and willow work. Since then I have begun making Gripfids for ply splitting and a variety of other basketry and weaving related crafts.
Bodkins and Fids
My standard bodkin has a spike of 6" x 1/2", but they can be made smaller and larger in any dimension.
Standard Bodkin £20
Large Bodkin £30
Standard Fid (1/2" wide) £25
Primarily used for ply split braiding. Also useful for knotwork and sewing objects such as books
3mm, 5mm and 6mm available
large or small. The larger of the two is normally used for chair seating, but both are used in rush basketry and hats (depending on the size rush you are using naturally)
Made to traditional styling and with no rough edges and sharp corners that can damage your work.
I can also make a leather sleave to fit, which will help to protect the bark of you willow from bruising
Rapping Iron £20
Leather Cover £5
These are designed for harvesting your willow. No two will be the same, but it will have a ? shape that allows you to easily cut individual or multiple rods with a simple pulling action. Please let me know if you would prefer a more or less open shape and I can pick one out for you
Used for cane work
Over the last few years I've been doing more and more work for the bookbinding communtity, ranging from making tools to teaching sharpening course aimed at the tools of the trade. Many of the tools are based on Victorian or Edwardian examples used daily in the bindery at Windser Castle.
I was introduced to the craft by my friend Dr Roderick Lane, Head of Book Conservations at the Royal Library, Windsor Castle: ‘Thank you Dave for the wonderfully hand crafted knives. They needed no additional preparation or resetting and are superior to any other knife I have ever used. They are cheaper, sharper and easier to use than the Japanese equivalents. Many thanks for your wonderful work.’
Three shapes. English, Quarter Round and French.
Standard and large sizes
English Pattern (standard) £30 (large) £35
Quarter Round (standard) £30 (large) £35
French Pattern (standard) £45 (large) £50
2" curved edge as standard then a choice of 1" or 1/2" on the other end. Available in 0.4mm or 0.7mm thickness
This example (made for the Royal Library) is no toy at 33oz (940g)
Can be made to fit most ploughs. I normally have 1/2" and 5/8" blades for Dryad ploughs in stock. I can also make replacement blades for other ploughs if you have an example to copy
1/2" dryad £35
5/8" dryad £40
These are the tools that I use for most of my sharpening and are the items that I normally recommend to people when they ask.
Also known as a morticing knife, used for cutting out mortices. I currently make the more conventional triangular bladed form, but also an older chisel-bladed version. Both about 11" end to end
I am now using and stocking these rather than the more commonly available Japanese stones (Ice Bear/Kingstone). Why? These are nicer to use, wear better, are wider (good for planes), come in a more sensible increment of grits and also happen to be cheaper!
Simply saturate with clean water before use and keep lubricated with water. When a hollow wears,just rub on a paving slab with sand until flat.
For general sharpening I suggest the 600/2000 grit combination. The coarse combination (120/400) is ideal for VERY blunt or chipped edges. The finest stone (3000/8000) is perfect for fine edges such as wood carving tools, leather working knives and razors.
Large stones are approx. 18cm x 6cm x 3cm
Small stones are approx. 9cm x 3cm x 3cm
120/400 grit stones: Large £15 Small £8
600/2000 grit stones: Large £20 Small £10
3000/8000 grit stones: Large £25 Small £12
Nagura Stone (30mm x 25mm x 65mm): £5
Leather Strop and Honing Compounds
The leather strop is the final stage in sharpening, and can bu used to touch up an edge between visits to a stone. By using a thin yet firm leather and backing it with wood, you are able to ensure a flat honing surface (vital if you have spent time perfecting a flat and consistant sharpening bevel!). The use of a loose belt like a barbour has the effect of ounding and potentially dulling an edge.
Honing compound/stropping pastes come in varying grades (see images for details) and are applied to the strop as needed.
Leather Strop (large c.12" x 2" x 1/2") £8
Leather Strop (small c.5" x 1" x 1/2") £4
Blue Compound ('Smurf Poo' Medium grade, fast paste) 50g £2
Pink Compound ('Rosey Hone' Fine polish, fairly fast cut) 50g £2
White Compound ('Bird Poo' Very fine polish for finest edges) 50g £3
Convex Sharpening kit
I have made these clever devices to help you to sharpen axes and other blades that have a convex edge. This block has a rubber backing that follows the curvature of your cutting edge, so making sharpening a true convex a doddle. The finesess of your edge can be tuned by the choice of grit paper placed on teh block. Should you be in need of a fine polished edge, then just turn the last paper over and apply stropping paste to the smooth side.
Each set comprises:
Block with foam backing and clamps
Hex key (stored in the side of the block)
4 strips each of abrasive paper (c120, 240, 600 and 1200 grit)
Dog Legged and Hollowing Gouges
These gouges are specifically designed for hollowing bowls, cups and troughs. The dog legged gouge is most suited to finishing the bottoms rather than the actual hollowing.
Blades only £40
Rustic handled £55
Carved handled £65
The traditional alternative to side cutters for cutting (or 'picking') ends flush with the basket.
I've modified these auger bits to fit the needs of the bushcrafter. They are small, compact and can be fitted with a handle quickly in the woods.
Other than attching a tube to the top, I have ground and polished the flutes to prevent cutting your hands in use. I also regrind and sharpen the bits to make them cut almost effortlessly.
I stock these in approx. 1/2", 3/4", 1" and 1 1/4" diameters, but can make them to any size that you require. (length is the depth of a drilled hole)
12mm x 110mm £20
19mm x 110mm £25
25mm x 70mm £25
25mm x 420mm £30
32mm x 110mm £30
32mm x 180mm £30